57-24 Roosevelt Ave.
Woodside, NY 11377
Visited: May 15, 2010
Woodside is a hub of activity: The LIRR stops there, the 7 train stops there, Roosevelt Avenue is a main thoroughfare and it’s even in the flightpath of nearby LaGuardia. It’s also a great little neighborhood for hanging out. Normally I prefer New York streets that are “on the grid” just because they’re psychologically satisfying and easier to navigate. But there’s an openness in Woodside, ironic because of the train overhead. It almost has the feeling of a large town square, kind of European, where you can see bars across the way and there’s a communal feeling that replaces the usual one of separation. Like at a restaurant, when sitting in a booth is often preferable to sitting at the counter with your friend all in a row.
A short walk from the aforementioned square is Donovan’s Pub. The picture above shows a lovely corner bar decorated a sign that commemorates Donovan’s burger prowess, having at some point in the past won the honor of the city’s best burger. I feel like the sign’s been up a while, but I also think this type of honor is akin to winning an Emmy, or something: Even if you won in 2004, your name may forever be preceded by “Emmy Winner.” Indeed the burger is what first brought me to Donovan’s years ago, and again this May for the legitimate trip along the Food Tour.
There are three main sections to the place. The bar up front is a little narrow but no matter – it’s kind of nice that it’s the only real way in or out. Brings people closer together. The section straight back is one part of the restaurant and it’s much larger, but also a little darker, full of tables and booths. The area to the right of the bar (past the bathrooms) is a little calmer, more rustic. The rear subsection of this area is paneled with a light wood and there are books and paintings around, too, and that’s where we ate our burgers (and for one of us, our turkey with mashed potatoes, which while apparently tasty are both beside the point).
The burger was served up with a portion of steak fries, cooked perfectly and actually golden-brown and crisp, not still yellow, underdone, soft. The burger itself, which I’m afraid I did not capture in cross-section, was a bit taller and thicker than some, and more delicious than most. I ordered it a little on the happy side of medium and so it was. This doneness brought about the meal’s only real complication: The thin bun stood no chance against the juiciness of the burger itself. A solid toasting might have been the answer, because a bigger bun, while helpful, would certainly have detracted from the experience.
Knowing what I know now, I might not give Donovan’s burger the title of Best of New York, but it gets my vote as the Best of Queens, and ranks higher on the ongoing list than Ted’s. Stopping at Donovan’s is a wonderful way to start out a night in Woodside and a worthy, convenient place to visit on the way to a Met game. Go!
GRAFT: Burgers
1. Donovan’s Pub – Woodside, NY
2. Ted’s Restaurant – Meriden, CT